Embroidery
By Brit München
The material is mounted onto a frame before being embroidered.
Cherished by the Chinese from time immemorial, embroidery was also familiar among the old Indians and Egyptians. However, their decorative drawings didn’t extend beyond geometrical shapes, it was the Assyrians who were the first to depict animal and human forms on their clothes and curtains. The Assyrians taught the Greeks their embroidery skills and they in turn passed them on to the Romans.
In the Middle Ages the robes of the clericals and the altar cloths were embroidered in the monasteries, these pieces of art were outstripped by the Arabian art institutions from the 11th Century onwards. With the educational developments the art of embroidery also became popular all over the world: It reached its highest form first in England, then in Burgundy in the 14th Century.
Baseball caps can also be embroidered per machine.
Industrial production
The industrial revolution brought about fundamental changes to the textile technologies – Franz Rittmeyer and Anton Vogler from Switzerland developed the first mechanical embroidery machine in the mid 19th Century. It was based on the principle that a needle with a thread was completely pulled through a spanned piece of cloth vertically. Then the piece of material was moved along a bit so that the needle could be stabbed through it again. The needle always pierced through at the same points, whilst the material was moved backwards and forwards – a basic principle which is still used by the modern embroidery machines of today. The movement of the textile was controlled by a so-called pantograph. Also in Switzerland at around the same time Isaak Groebli invented the first large-scale embroidery machine, the so-called Schiffli machine. It combined the techniques of the large-scale weaving looms with those of sewing machines. In particular it used the principle of the needle/bobbin thread system. These threads were continuously spun using spools, which meant that the laborious hooking familiar from the hand-operated embroidery machine was no longer necessary. This was the break-through for the embroidery machines. A totally new branch of the textile processing industry evolved in Switzerland, but also in Germany (Erzgebirge/Vogtland) and in Austria (Vorarlberg): industrial embroidery. The pantograph was responsible for organising the movement of the machine via a punched tape. This is where the term “punch“ (punch a hole) comes from, which is what the machine-controlled transfer of an embroidery pattern is called. In 1896 the first punch machine was built, which led to the workers being divided up into punchers and embroiderers. A further occupation also developed from the embroidery business: the draftsman. He had to initially enlarge the samples and then enter the individual embroidery points that the puncher had follow.
The material is mounted onto a frame before being embroidered.
Cherished by the Chinese from time immemorial, embroidery was also familiar among the old Indians and Egyptians. However, their decorative drawings didn’t extend beyond geometrical shapes, it was the Assyrians who were the first to depict animal and human forms on their clothes and curtains. The Assyrians taught the Greeks their embroidery skills and they in turn passed them on to the Romans.
In the Middle Ages the robes of the clericals and the altar cloths were embroidered in the monasteries, these pieces of art were outstripped by the Arabian art institutions from the 11th Century onwards. With the educational developments the art of embroidery also became popular all over the world: It reached its highest form first in England, then in Burgundy in the 14th Century.
Baseball caps can also be embroidered per machine.
Industrial production
The industrial revolution brought about fundamental changes to the textile technologies – Franz Rittmeyer and Anton Vogler from Switzerland developed the first mechanical embroidery machine in the mid 19th Century. It was based on the principle that a needle with a thread was completely pulled through a spanned piece of cloth vertically. Then the piece of material was moved along a bit so that the needle could be stabbed through it again. The needle always pierced through at the same points, whilst the material was moved backwards and forwards – a basic principle which is still used by the modern embroidery machines of today. The movement of the textile was controlled by a so-called pantograph. Also in Switzerland at around the same time Isaak Groebli invented the first large-scale embroidery machine, the so-called Schiffli machine. It combined the techniques of the large-scale weaving looms with those of sewing machines. In particular it used the principle of the needle/bobbin thread system. These threads were continuously spun using spools, which meant that the laborious hooking familiar from the hand-operated embroidery machine was no longer necessary. This was the break-through for the embroidery machines. A totally new branch of the textile processing industry evolved in Switzerland, but also in Germany (Erzgebirge/Vogtland) and in Austria (Vorarlberg): industrial embroidery. The pantograph was responsible for organising the movement of the machine via a punched tape. This is where the term “punch“ (punch a hole) comes from, which is what the machine-controlled transfer of an embroidery pattern is called. In 1896 the first punch machine was built, which led to the workers being divided up into punchers and embroiderers. A further occupation also developed from the embroidery business: the draftsman. He had to initially enlarge the samples and then enter the individual embroidery points that the puncher had follow.
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